About
Belgrade is a city sitting at the junction of two rivers, its bones covered with scars. The Sava and the Danube meet here. When you look from the Kalemegdan hill, you can clearly see the line where the two colors mix. From the Romans to the Byzantines, from the Ottomans to the Austro-Hungarians, from Yugoslavia to today's Serbia — this city has been destroyed more than 40 times and has risen again each time. "Beograd" means "White City" in Serbian. Today's Belgrade isn't exactly white — the walls are covered with scars from the 1999 NATO bombing, the gray plaster of the '90s economic collapse, but there's a young energy constantly stirring underneath.
The fact that Belgrade is the most budget-friendly European capital, combined with this energy, creates a strange attraction. A beer costs 2-3 EUR, a hearty dinner costs 10-15 EUR, club entrance costs 5-10 EUR. You come from Istanbul in two hours, but the costs are close to Turkish prices — cheaper for some items. That's why it's one of the best addresses in Europe for a weekend getaway.
Serbian nightlife is a culture in itself. Splavovi — floating clubs anchored on the Sava and Danube — have nearly 50 open during the summer. The music style is as serious as Berlin's techno scene, but the atmosphere is much more relaxed. Serbs start late: don't go to the splav before 02:00, no one is there, you will feel empty. Dancing on the river until the morning, then breakfast at Walter Burek — this routine is the signature of Belgrade.
On the food side, Serbian cuisine is familiar to a Turkish palate. Ćevapi (mini grilled meatballs), marjoram, ajvar, burek—all Ottoman heritage, but Serbs have reinterpreted each in their own way. Kafana culture (traditional tavern) is still alive: tamburica music, cigarette smoke (smoking inside is still legal in many places), rakija from the glass. You experience this in its purest form on Skadarlija street.
There is also Yugoslav nostalgia. Today, people still come and cry at Tito's grave, the Yugoslavia Museum receives visitors from all generations, and old Pioneer uniforms are sold. The 90s were difficult for the Balkans, but the culture of mourning a lost country of that period makes Belgrade completely different. You shouldn't dismiss this nostalgia as touristy — that's half of understanding Belgrade.
When to Go
Belgrade's climate is clear in four seasons — winters are cold, summers are hot. There is generally wind at the Sava-Danube junction, it feels harsher in the winter months.
| Period | Weather (daytime) | Density | Otel Fiyatı | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January-February | -2 / 5° | Low | Low | Orthodox Christmas (January 7), St. Sava's day (January 27) |
| March | 4 / 13° | Low | Low-Medium | Spring is slowly opening, FEST film festival |
| April | 9 / 18° | Medium | Medium | Parks are greening, the ideal start |
| May | 14 / 23° | Medium-High | Medium | One of the most beautiful months, splavovi is opening |
| June | 17 / 27° | High | High | Full splav season, life on the terrace |
| July | 19 / 30° | High | High | Hot but cool by the river, EXIT week |
| August | 19 / 30° | Very High | High | Beer Festival, crowd ceiling |
| September | 14 / 25° | Medium-High | Medium | Second best period, weather is mild |
| October | 9 / 17° | Medium | Low-Medium | Autumn colors, Jazz Festival |
| November | 4 / 9° | Low | Low | Quiet, warm inside your head |
| December | 0 / 5° | Medium | Medium | New Year celebrations, Slavija square decorated |
The best period is May-June and September-October. Late May to early September is ideal for the Splav season — outside of these dates, river clubs are either closed or moved to indoor venues. It becomes difficult to find a hotel during the August Beer Festival period, and the July EXIT week is also half crowded — early booking is a good idea during these two periods.
How to get there
Belgrade's airport, Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport (BEG), is 18 km west of the city center.
Flights from Türkiye:
| Exit | Duration | Airline |
|---|---|---|
| Istanbul (IST) - BEG | 1 hour 35 min | THY, Air Serbia (3-4 flights per day) |
| Istanbul (SAW) - BEG | 1 hour 40 min | Pegasus (1-2 times a day) |
| Ankara (ESB) - BEG | 1 hour 50 min | THY (2-3 times a week) |
Air Serbia operates direct flights and is an alternative to Turkish Airlines. If you buy early, tickets from Istanbul can be found for 80-150 EUR. Pegasus is generally the most affordable.
From airport to city:
- A1 Mini-bus shuttle: 30 min, Slavija square, 400 RSD (~3.5 EUR). The most practical.
- Bus 72: 45-60 min, Zeleni Venac, 150 RSD (~1.3 EUR). Local method, cheap.
- Taxi: Fixed price 1,800-2,200 RSD (~15-19 EUR) — there is an official taxi booth at the airport exit, take it from there, do not hail a taxi from the street.
- Bolt/CarGo: 25-35 min, 1.200-1.800 RSD (~10-15 EUR). The safest and cheapest.
Recommendation: Come with the A1 shuttle, call Bolt on the way back. Fraud with local taxis is a historical issue.
By bus: Istanbul-Belgrade bus 14-16 hours (Metro, Lasta), 60-100 EUR. It's tiring, but visa information is done at the border, it's easy.
Urban Transportation
Belgrade has no metro — construction has been discussed for years but has not started yet. Instead there is a dense network of trams and buses.
Tram: 12 lines cover the main arteries of the city. Tram number 2 is the most useful as it revolves around the centre. It works between 04:00 - 24:00.
Bus: More than 100 lines. 72 (airport), 26 (Ada Ciganlija), 84 (Zemun) are the most known. There are also late night buses.
Trolleybus: From city center to Zvezdara and Karaburma. Historical lines.
Ticket system: Single ticket 89 RSD (from the kiosk, ~0.8 EUR) or 120 RSD (from the driver). Get the "BusPlus" card — deposit 250 RSD, top up, get a discounted pass. If you are a weekend tourist, one ticket is enough. Don't forget to buy and validate your ticket — controllers come regularly, the fine is 8,000 RSD (~70 EUR).
Bolt/CarGo: App-based taxi, 300-700 RSD (~2.5-6 EUR) within the city. There is a case study of hailing a taxi on the street - defrauding tourists. Call Bolt or a registered taxi company (Pink Taxi, Naxi Taxi).
Walking: The center is compact, 30 minutes walk between Kalemegdan and St. Sava. You can access most tourist sites by foot.
Accommodation Regions
Belgrade neighborhoods vary greatly in character — match your budget and travel style.
- Stari Grad (Old Town): Kalemegdan, Knez Mihailova, Skadarlija are here. Everything is within walking distance, lively day and night. It is the most expensive area, but the budget is still affordable compared to Belgrade.
- Vračar: The area around the Temple of St. Sava is calm and elegant. For young professionals and families. 15 min walk to Stari Grad.
- Dorćol: Northern tip of Stari Grad, old Jewish quarter. The hippest area in Belgrade at the moment — exclusive cafes, boutiques, art galleries. Ideal for young travelers.
- Savamala: Sava coast, Beton Hala area. Former industrial buildings are now restaurants and clubs. Ideal if you focus on nightlife.
- New Belgrade (Novi Beograd): Socialist period brutalist architecture, opposite side of the Sava. Big hotels, shopping malls. 15-20 minutes by tram to the center. Cheap and quiet.
- Zemun: Old Austrian town, romantic. A little far (6 km) for a trip to the center but unique atmosphere.
What we do not recommend: Karaburma and Mirijevo are remote and not touristy; The area around Dušanovac is not quiet at night.
Budget Plan
Belgrade is one of the most budget-friendly among European capitals. It's even a little more affordable than Prague and Budapest.
| Budget Style | Accommodation | Food | Activity/Transportation | Total (2 people/3 days) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Economic (hostel/2* hotel, burek + 1 kafana) | 80 EUR | 60 EUR | 30 EUR | ~170 EUR |
| Moderate (3-4* hotel Stari Grad, mixed) | 200 EUR | 130 EUR | 60 EUR | ~390 EUR |
| Comfort (4-5* boutique hotel, gastronomy) | 450 EUR | 250 EUR | 100 EUR | ~800 EUR |
| Luxury (Square Nine, Crowne Plaza, fine dining) | 1,000 EUR+ | 450 EUR+ | 180 EUR | ~1,700 EUR+ |
Practical items: Espresso 150-250 RSD (~1.3-2 EUR), burek 250-400 RSD (~2-3.5 EUR), ćevapi 500-800 RSD (~4-7 EUR), beer (fresh) 250-400 RSD (~2-3.5 EUR), rakija (3 cl) 200-350 RSD (~1.7-3 EUR), kafanada dinner 1,500-2,500 RSD (~13-21 EUR), splav entrance 0-2,000 RSD, Bolt city 300-700 RSD.
Practical Tips
Currency: Serbia is not a member of the EU, its currency is the Serbian Dinar (RSD). Tourist attractions accept Euros but convert them at a bad exchange rate — switch to RSD. Withdraw money from the ATM or exchange it at a reliable exchange office (menjačnica) in Knez Mihailova — the ATM center next to the Air Serbia office offers good rates. Reject the "conversion" offer at the ATM, your own bank's rate is better. Payment by card is common, only markets and small kiosks require cash.
EUR or RSD? RSD. Even if the venue accepts Euros, it does its own translation and you lose 10-15%. Withdraw RSD from ATMs and take a small amount of cash with you — 3,000-5,000 RSD is enough for a day trip.
Water: Belgrade's tap water is drinkable. There is no need to buy bottled water.
Scam: Meter manipulation is classic in street taxis. Always call a taxi via Bolt or phone. Check the bill at the restaurant — some kafanas automatically add 200-300 RSD for "couvert". Don't listen to those who offer "VIP tables" at the Splav entrance, ordinary entrance is free in most places anyway.
Smoking: Indoor smoking is still very common in Serbia. Most of the kafanas are smoked inside, and some restaurants have a smoking lounge. If you are sensitive to cigarette smoke, choose a terrace or choose modern non-smoking venues (Manufaktura, Salaš 011).
Splavs: Active in summer (May-September). Don't go before 02:00 on Friday-Saturday night, no one is there. The clothes are comfortable, no one is looking. Go with Bolt, it can be unsafe to move around the splav on foot. Keep your phone and wallet at eye level — especially on the dance floor.
Being Turkish: Serbian-Turkish relations have been historically complicated, but today they are very warm commercially and touristically. The general attitude towards Turks is positive, the popularity of the series is effective. When I say "Turski", it is sometimes used in a good sense ("Turkish coffee", "Turkish carpet"), sometimes in historical reference ("Turkish occupation") — look at the context.
Basic Serbian words: "Dobar dan" (good day), "Hvala" (thanks), "Molim" (you're welcome), "Ziveli" (cheers), "Ćao" (greeting/goodbye — borrowed from Italian). The younger generation knows English, the older generation has difficulty. The Latin alphabet is common, but the Cyrillic alphabet is used equally — street signs have both.
Local Label and Culture Notes
Serbs are tough on the outside but extremely warm when inside. It's unrealistic to expect a friendly face at your first encounter — that's not rudeness, that's cultural harshness. Once the conversation is opened, surprise generosity follows: rakija is ordered, cigarettes are shared, it can even go as far as a house invitation.
Greeting: Handshake is standard. Cheek kissing three times (right-left-right) between close friends. At the restaurant, do not sit at the table before the waiter arrives, wait at the door.
Tip: 10% standard in restaurants. Round up the bill and leave the extra. Slight rounding is also expected in taxis. 10% at spa/hair salon.
Slava (Family Holiday): It is a great honor if you are invited to a Serbian house on 'slava' day. Candle, bread (slavski kolač) and wheat (žito) are consecrated, do not enter without taking them. Bring flowers or good wine as a gift to the host, never an odd number of flowers (odd numbers are used for funerals — prefer an even number).
Rakija culture: Rakija (fruit brandy) is at the center of Serbian culture. Shlivovica (plum), kajsija (apricot), dunja (quince), kruška (pear) are the classics. It can also be drunk in the morning — "open for a rakija" actually means "open for the day." Homemade (domaća) is significantly different from the commercial one, try it if you get the chance.
Music: Electronic music is at a serious level in Splavovs, but in Kafanas you listen to turbo-folk and old Yugoslav rock. Know "Bregović" (Goran Bregović) when you hear it, Serbian music of collective memory. The names Ceca, Lepa Brena, Bajaga are classics of the older generation.
History betting: Topics like the 90s wars, Kosovo, NATO bombing are sensitive — don't bring it up unless a local brings it up. The Ottoman period can sometimes be a tense topic for Turks, but generally Turkish tourists are welcomed in a friendly manner.
FAQ
Does I need a visa to Belgrade? No. Turkish ordinary passport holders can enter without a visa for up to 90 days in 180 days. Your passport must be valid for at least 90 days, and you may be asked for return tickets and accommodation at the border. Special, service and diplomatic passport holders are also visa-free.
What is the currency, is card payment common? Serbian Dinar (RSD). Around 1 EUR ≈ 117 RSD. The card is accepted almost everywhere — kafanas, splavs, markets, taxis (Bolt). Market places and small kiosks require cash. Keep 3,000-5,000 RSD cash with you daily.
Should I pay EUR or RSD? Definitely RSD. Some tourist attractions accept Euros but their exchange rate is bad, you will lose 10-15%. Check at ATM or cash at reliable menjačnica in Knez Mihailova.
Is Belgrade safe? In general, yes, it is safe by European standards. Be careful of pickpockets in tourist areas (Knez Mihailova, splavs). Instead of walking alone late at night, call Bolt. Don't take street taxis, be careful of ATM fraud. It is also safe for female solo travelers.
How is the Splav (river club) experience and when should you go? Active in the summer months (late May - early September). Don't go before 02:00 on Friday-Saturday night, no one is there. Go with Bolt, the outfit is comfortable. Klub 20/44 and Hot Mess are the most well-known. Entrance is usually free, drinks cost 400-800 RSD. Dance until the morning, then classic breakfast at Walter Burek.
I don't speak Serbian, is that a problem? Impossible. The younger generation speaks English (especially in the center and slavs). The older generation is having a hard time, but the hand gesture works. Learn a few Serbian words — “Hvala” (thanks), “Dobar dan” (good day), “Živeli” (cheers). It is generally well received.
How many days to visit Belgrade? Three days are enough for the center — Kalemegdan, Skadarlija, St. Sava, one splav night. Five days are ideal: Zemun, Ada Ciganlija, Tito monument, museums in addition to the above. It allows one-week day tours (Novi Sad, Sremski Karlovci). 2-3 days isn't bad for a weekend getaway — especially if you're nightlife-focused.
Where to go on a day trip from Belgrade? Novi Sad (1.5 hours by bus, EXIT festival city, Petrovaradin Fortress); Sremski Karlovci (2 hours, baroque town, wine production centre); Smederevo (1 hour, largest medieval castle in Europe); Avala Tower (30 min, panoramic view). Novi Sad is the most popular and easiest.