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Rio de Janeiro cover photo
TatileUcak · City Brochure May 31, 2026
Brazil, America

Rio de Janeiro

The heart beating to the rhythm of Samba, the arms opening from Corcovado, the setting sun in Copacabana

Overall
4.6 / 5
Population
6.7M
Currency
BRL
Best Time
May, June

Must-See Places

01
Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)
The 30-meter statue of Jesus with his arms outstretched stands at an altitude of 710 meters on top of Corcovado Mountain. One of the seven new wonders of the world. When he appears from the clouds, you get goosebumps - even if you don't believe it.
Parque Nacional da Tijuca, Alto da Boa Vista · 08:00 - 19:00 · 80-130 BRL (varies depending on season)
💡 Catch the first train at 08:00 in the morning, the clouds usually settle in the afternoon and you cannot see the statue. Be sure to check the weather — you'll be wasted on a cloudy day.
★ 4.9
02
Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf Mountain)
The 396-meter granite hill you climb with a two-stage cable car. First stop is Morro da Urca, second stop is the summit. When you look at the city over Guanabara Bay at sunset, you understand why Rio is called "cidade maravilhosa" (extraordinary city).
Hunting. Pasteur, 520 - Urca · 09:00 - 21:00 (last departure 20:00) · 120-170 BRL
💡 Go out 1.5 hours before sunset and catch both day and night views. Look for the days when there is live music in Morro da Urca — the cable car + concert combination is legendary.
★ 4.8
03
Ipanema Beach
Copacabana's stylish older sister. The bossa nova song "Garota de Ipanema" was written here. The beach is divided by postos — each posto has its own mass. Posto 9 is the place for young and hipster crowd, Posto 8 is LGBT+ friendly, Posto 11 is the place for surfers. The sunset from the Arpoador cliffs is applauded, yes they really are applauding.
Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro · Always · Free
💡 Go to Arpoador cliffs 30 minutes before sunset to grab your spot. The crowd applauds as the sun sets in the ocean — cliché, but still chilling.
★ 4.7
04
Tijuca Ormani (Floresta da Tijuca)
The world's largest urban rainforest. 3,200 hectares of tropical paradise right in the middle of the city. Waterfalls, hiking trails, monkeys and toucans. Cristo Redentor is actually in this forest. Amazon feeling in the middle of the concrete jungle.
Parque Nacional da Tijuca · 08:00 - 17:00 · Free
💡 The Pico da Tijuca hike (2 hours) is the most popular route, the view at the top is rewarding. Cascatinha Taunay waterfall is near the entrance of the forest, easy to access and refreshing.
★ 4.6
05
Copacabana Beach
4km of white sand, a black-and-white wavy pavement pattern, kids playing football on it, men selling caipirinhas and tanning Cariocas. The most iconic beach in the world and it's free. You can't even imagine this in Copenhagen.
Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro · Always · Free
💡 Do not leave valuables on the beach. Sandals, a towel, some cash — that's it. Put your phone in a waterproof case. Try the beach vendors' biscoito globo (light cookie), Rio's official beach snack.
★ 4.5
06
Escadaria Selaron (Selaron Stairs)
Obsessive work by Chilean artist Jorge Selaron, which lasted from 1990 to 2013. The 215 steps leading down from Santa Teresa to Lapa are covered with tiles and ceramics from more than 60 countries. Each digit is a different color, pattern and story. The place went viral long before Instagram was invented.
R. Manuel Carneiro - Santa Teresa · Anytime (recommended during the day) · Free
💡 Go early in the morning, it gets crowded in the afternoon and it becomes impossible to take photos. Watch out for pickpockets around — be careful when handling the phone.
★ 4.5

Must-Try Flavors

01
Churrascaria Palace · Churrasco / Brazilian BBQ
The place where meat lovers pilgrimage. In the Rodizio system, waiters come to your table with sword-like skewers and cut the meat into slices. When you say picanha (veal leg), fraldinha (belly meat), costela (ribs), you lose count. Turn the green card and say stop, turn the red card and say stop - that's the only rule of this war.
120-200 BRL · R. Rodolfo Dantas, 16 - Copacabana
★ 4.7
02
Marius Degustare · Premium Churrasco / Seafood
Premium rodizio with ocean view in Copacabana. Seafood and meat are in the same rodizio — lobster, shrimp, octopus, picanha, lamb all rotate. Even the salad bar has 50 varieties. It is expensive, but it is perfect for those who want to have a luxurious night in Brazil.
250-400 BRL · Av. Atlantica, 290 - Leme
★ 4.7
03
Bar do Mineiro · Brazilian Traditional / Boteco
Santa Teresa's legendary boteco (neighborhood bar). Its feijoada (black bean stew) is one of the best in Rio. Carioca tradition of eating feijoada on Saturdays — with beer, samba music, sitting on the terrace. The menu is simple, the portion is giant, the price is friendly.
40-80 BRL · R. Paschoal Carlos Magno, 99 - Santa Teresa
★ 4.6
04
Confeitaria Colombo · Cafe / Patisserie
Belle époque cafe from 1894. Drinking coffee under Belgian mirrors, Portuguese tiles and crystal chandeliers is a journey back in time. You should try the quindim (coconut pudding) and pastel de nata Rio version in the patisserie section. The architecture alone is worth the entrance fee.
30-70 BRL · R. Goncalves Dias, 32 - Centro
★ 4.6

Shopping Points

01
Feira de Sao Cristovao (Nordeste Market) · Local
The bastion of Brazil's northeastern culture in Rio. 700 stalls, live forro music, baiao dancing, northeastern food, cachaça tasting. Come Saturday evening, it doesn't end until Sunday morning. Forrozao (dance floor) giant. Few tourists, plenty of Nordestino — authenticity is at its peak.
Campo de Sao Cristovao - Sao Cristovao · Tuesday-Thursday 10:00-18:00, Friday 10:00-Sunday 22:00 (non-stop) · ₺-₺₺
★ 4.5
02
Feira Hippie de Ipanema · Local
An open-air market that has been held every Sunday since 1968. Handmade jewelry, leather bags, paintings, gifts, vintage clothes. Havaianas flip-flops, caipirinha glass, brazil stone jewelry — that's where you end your gift list. In Praca General Osorio, just above the beach in Ipanema.
Praca General Osorio - Ipanema · Sunday 08:00 - 18:00 · ₺-₺₺₺
★ 4.4
03
Shopping Leblon · Premium
Zona Sul's luxury shopping mall. Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Zara, Farm (Brazil's most trendy fashion brand) together. Air-conditioned, clean, safe. Be sure to visit Havaianas store, Osklen and Farm to discover Brazilian brands.
Av. Afranio de Melo Franco, 290 - Leblon · 10:00 - 22:00 (Sunday 15:00 - 21:00) · ₺₺₺-₺₺₺₺
★ 4.3
04
Saara (Sahara Shopping District) · Local
11 streets in Centro, 600+ shops. Rio's Grand Bazaar. Cheap clothes, shoes, accessories, party supplies, Carnival costumes — there's nothing we can't find here. Chaotic, noisy, colorful and easy on the wallet. Bargaining is a must.
R. da Alfandega / R. Buenos Aires - Centro · 09:00 - 18:00 (Monday-Saturday) · ₺-₺₺
★ 4.1

3 Day Trip Plan

Day 1Cristo + Copacabana + first caipirinha

07:30 - 11:00 · Cristo Redentor (Corcovado)
11:30 - 13:00 · Lunch - feijoada at Boteco
14:00 - 16:00 · Copacabana Beach
16:30 - 18:00 · Forte de Copacabana

Day 2Cable car + neighborhood exploration + samba night

09:00 - 10:30 · Ipanema Beach morning walk
11:00 - 13:00 · Jardim Botanico
13:30 - 14:30 · Lunch - acai bowl in Leblon
15:30 - 18:30 · Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Day 3Santa Teresa + historical center + farewell beach

09:00 - 11:00 · Explore the Santa Teresa neighborhood
11:00 - 11:30 · Escadaria Selaron
12:00 - 13:30 · Lunch - Confeitaria Colombo
14:00 - 16:00 · Centro historical walk

Practical Information

Visa & Transportation

TR Passport (public) Visa-Free · 90 days
Nearest AirportGIG
Time DifferenceTR -6 hours
Plug TypeType C/N

Summary Information

LanguagePortuguese
CurrencyBrezilya Reali (BRL)
Annual Average25°C
Average Flight Ticket850€
Budget$$$··

Best Months

MayJuneJulyAugustSeptember
Rio de Janeiro · Editor's Notes

About

Rio de Janeiro is one of the most dramatic cities in the world. When I say dramatic, I'm not kidding — there's a giant statue with its arms outstretched atop a 700-meter mountain, a rainforest rises in the middle of the city, granite cliffs jut out of the ocean, favelas cling to the hillsides, football never ends on the beaches. This city is not a movie set, but every frame is cinematic.

They call the people of Rio Carioca. And the Carioca spirit explains everything: don't take life seriously, take the beach seriously, take samba seriously, take carnaval seriously, but everything else is "vai dar certo" (it will be taken care of). This spirit has permeated the streets, bars and beaches. It is quite normal for the man who runs in Copacabana at 7 in the morning to samba in Lapa at 11 in the evening. That indescribable feeling of longing, which Brazilians call "saudade", will catch you after you return from this city.

Geographically, Rio is a miracle. The Atlantic Ocean is on one side, Guanabara Bay is on the other, with the Tijuca rainforest in the middle and granite hills (morros) scattered around. The city is wedged between these natural barriers, so each neighborhood is its own world. Zona Sul (Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon) is the center of beach culture, Centro is history and business, Lapa is nightlife, Santa Teresa is bohemian art, Barra da Tijuca is the modern suburb.

Someone coming from Istanbul will also encounter places that will feel familiar in Rio: views from the hills, seaside lifestyle, street food, crowded neighborhoods, lively nightlife. But the difference is also big - here the samba rhythm is everywhere, tropical fruit stalls are on every corner, people find it unnecessary to wear clothes other than havaianas and swimsuits, and sitting on the cliff and clapping at sunset is a real tradition.

Beware: Rio will fascinate you. When you return, you will think "why isn't anyone applauding" at the first sunset in Türkiye? This is normal, it means you are infected with Carioca virus.

When to Go

Rio has a tropical climate, meaning it is hot and humid. But the meaning of the word "hot" in Rio varies depending on the season.

May - September (Winter / Dry Season): The weather is 20-27 degrees, plenty of sun, little rain. Being on the beach is comfortable, walking is enjoyable, and you have a high chance of seeing Cristo without any cloud obstruction. June-July are the most comfortable months. Hotel prices are low and the city is relatively quiet. If you're going for the first time, this window is golden.

December - March (Summer / Rainy Season): 28-40 degrees, 80%+ humidity, tropical showers in the afternoon. February Carnival period — the biggest party in the world, but hotel prices go up 3-5 times, everywhere is packed. If you want a carnival, plan 6 months in advance. New Year's Eve (Réveillon) is equally crazy — 2 million-person celebration in Copacabana.

October - November: Transition period. The weather is getting warmer, but summer madness hasn't started yet. Prices are reasonable, crowd is moderate. It's a good gamble.

Short answer: May-September if you want calm and comfortable. If you want a carnival, it's mid-February. If you want New Year's Eve, December 31st. If you're budget-minded, June-August is the best window.

How to get there

There are no direct flights from Istanbul to Rio. Linked options:

  • TAP Portugal (transfer Lisbon): The most popular route. Istanbul-Lisbon 4 hours, Lisbon-Rio 10 hours. In Lisbon, you enter the Portuguese environment. Total 16-18 hours.
  • Turkish Airlines + LATAM/GOL: THY to Sao Paulo (GRU), then domestic flight to Rio. Istanbul-Sao Paulo 13 hours direct, Sao Paulo-Rio 1 hour.
  • Emirates (transfer to Dubai): Long but comfortable. Dubai-Sao Paulo leg 15+ hours.
  • Air France (Paris transfer): There is a direct line from Paris to Rio, 11 hours.

Economy round-trip ticket prices vary between 700-1,100 EUR. The best prices are in the March-May and August-November periods. Prices soar during Carnival and New Year's Eve.

Rio's airport Galeao (GIG) is 20 km from the city center. Transportation options:

  • BRT + Metro: From the airport to Vicente de Carvalho with the BRT line, and from there to the center with Metro Linha 2. Total 60-90 minutes, around 10 BRL. It's cheap but cumbersome with luggage.
  • Taxi / Uber / 99: The most practical way. 80-150 BRL, 30-40 minutes if there is no traffic. Uber and 99 (Brazil's ride-hailing app) operate at the airport. Official yellow taxis are fixed price from the counter.
  • Shuttle / Transfer: Pre-booked transfer services 60-100 BRL/person. Hotels also organize transfers.

Urban Transportation

Transportation in Rio is not as complicated as Istanbul, but it has its own rules.

Metro: Two lines (Linha 1 and Linha 2). It reaches from Zona Sul to Centro, Maracanã, Botafogo. Clean, safe, air conditioned. 6.50 BRL one way. Buy Kartao Galeao card and use it everywhere.

BRT: Barra da Tijuca and for the airport connection. Large lines but can get crowded and hot.

Uber / 99: Life saver. Cheaper than a taxi, route is clear, payment is automatic. In Rio, Uber operates everywhere. Short distance 10-20 BRL, Copacabana-Centro 25-40 BRL.

VLT (Light Rail): New tram line in the Centro area. There is also the Airport-Centro line. Modern, air-conditioned, 4.30 BRL.

Bus: Cheap (4.30 BRL) but crowded and slow. If you don't know the route, use the Moovit app.

Bicycle (Bike Rio): Shared bicycle sponsored by Itau. The bike path along the Copacabana-Ipanema beach is very enjoyable. 10 BRL per day.

Golden rule: Get around Zona Sul (Copacabana-Ipanema-Leblon) on foot or by bike. Take the metro to Centro. Uber/99 to Barra da Tijuca. Metro + short walk to Lapa at night.

Accommodation Regions

Copacabana: Classic tourist area. Hotel for every budget, beachfront access, restaurants, bars. There is a metro connection. A little noisy at night but the location can't be beat. 150-600 BRL per night.

Ipanema / Leblon: The stylish side of Zona Sul. Quieter, safer, more expensive. Walking to the beach, walking to restaurants, walking to everything. 250-1,000 BRL per night.

Botafogo / Flamengo: Mix of locals and tourists, rising gastronomic scene. On the subway line, close to Sugarloaf. More affordable than Copacabana. 120-400 BRL per night.

Santa Teresa: Bohemian, artistic, on the hill. Hostels and boutique hotels. The view is beautiful but transportation is limited — taxi/Uber required. 100-350 BRL per night.

Centro: The business district empties out at night. Affordable business hotels on weekdays. Nightlife and the beach are far away. I do not recommend.

Barra da Tijuca: Modern, large suburb with shopping mall. Family friendly, wide beach but far from the spirit of Rio. 150-500 BRL per night.

Recommendation: Copacabana or Ipanema for first-time visitors, Botafogo if your budget is limited, Ipanema/Leblon if you want a romantic getaway, Santa Teresa if you want a bohemian spirit.

Budget Plan

Rio is affordable compared to Europe, but not as cheap as Southeast Asia. It can be seriously advantageous when the Brazilian Real is low.

Category Economical Medium Luxury
Accommodation / night 80 BRL (hostel) 300 BRL (3-4*) 1,000 BRL+ (5*)
Meal/day 60 BRL (street+boteco) 150 BRL 500 BRL+
Transportation / day 20 BRL (metro) 60 BRL (metro+Uber) 200 BRL (Uber/taxi)
Activity / day 30 BRL 150 BRL 400 BRL+
3 days total ~570 BRL (~100 EUR) ~1,980 BRL (~340 EUR) ~6,300 BRL+ (~1,080 EUR)

1 EUR is approximately 5.80 BRL (May 2026 exchange rate). 100 BRL is about 17 EUR.

On a budget plan, you can visit Rio for 30-35 EUR per day — street food is cheap, beaches are free, samba nights are on the sidewalk. Even churrasco rodizio costs 120-200 BRL (20-35 EUR), half the price of fine dining in Europe.

Practical Tips

  • Download and install Uber and 99 applications from Türkiye. Don't take a taxi in Rio, Uber/99 is always safer and cheaper. 99 is sometimes cheaper than Uber.
  • Security: Rio's security issue is exaggerated, but it is real. Do not leave valuables on the beach, do not walk in dark streets at night, do not wear expensive watches/jewelry, do not use your phone openly. Zona Sul is generally safe, but be careful.
  • Cash + card: Large venues accept cards, but street vendors, beach quiosques and small bars require cash. Have 100-200 BRL in your pocket.
  • Sunscreen is a must. Tropical sun is serious. Heatstroke in Rio lands a tourist in the hospital, no joke. Use SPF 50+, wear a hat.
  • Drink water, but not tap water. Bottled water costs 3-5 BRL everywhere. Agua de coco (fresh coconut water) is both refreshing and nourishing, 7-10 BRL at every corner.
  • Portuguese: English is limited even in tourist places. Google Translate saves lives. Learn a few words: "obrigado/a" (thank you), "por favor" (please), "quanto custa?" (how much?), "cerveja" (beer), "suco" (juice).
  • Caipirinha: Brazil's national cocktail — cachaca (sugar cane raki) + lime + sugar + ice. It's everywhere, it's different everywhere. Try the maracuja (passion fruit) version too.
  • Beach culture: Buy a canga (thin beach cover), rent an umbrella (15-20 BRL/day), choose a posto (beach section) and settle in. Biscoito globo (light cookies) and mate gelado (cold mate tea) are must-haves at the beach.
  • eSIM or local SIM: Get a Claro, Vivo or TIM SIM card at the airport. 7-day data package 30-50 BRL. You avoid being dependent on Wi-Fi.
  • Be prepared for rain. Tropical showers come without warning, raining for 30 minutes. Carry a folding umbrella or raincoat.

Travel Guide with Children

Rio can be challenging for families with children, but with the right planning it is a great adventure. Brazilians are very welcoming to children — you'll find smiles, care and help everywhere.

Recommendations by Age Group

  • 0-3 years: The beaches are wide and sandy, with shallow wave areas. Baby care rooms in shopping malls (Shopping Leblon, BarraShopping) are good. Sidewalks are uneven, kangaroo carrier is more practical than baby stroller. Beware of the heat — take shelter in air-conditioned spaces at noon.

  • 4-7 years: Exploring the monkeys and toucans in Jardim Botanico is this age's favorite. AquaRio (South America's largest aquarium) keeps you busy for half a day. Building a castle on the beach and playing with the waves is endless fun.

  • 8-12 years: Sugarloaf cable car adventure, Cristo Redentor visit and Tijuca Forest walk excite this age. The Maracanã stadium tour is a football fan's dream. You can also take surfing lessons on the beach.

  • Ages 13+: Ipanema beach culture, Santa Teresa street arts, photo shoot at Lapa stairs, acai bowl exploration. Paragliding (tandem) from Pedra Bonita is possible for ages 13+ — flying over Rio is unforgettable.

Top 5 Kid-Friendly Activities

  1. AquaRio — On the edge of Guanabara Bay, 350 species, 8,000 animals. Touch pools, shark tunnel, interactive exhibits. Air-conditioned, ideal as a rainy day plan.

  2. Sugarloaf Cable Car — Kids love the cable car adventure. Marmoset monkeys roam Morro da Urca, and the view at the top is impressive for all ages.

  3. Jardim Botanico — Monkeys, toucans, giant water lilies, butterflies. Nature exploration + space to run. Moreover, entrance is very cheap.

  4. Copacabana/Ipanema Beaches — There are shallow areas, the beach can be chosen according to the wavelength. Sand castle competition, football, biscoito globo — free entertainment for kids.

  5. Santa Teresa with Bondinho (Tram) — Nostalgic tram excites children. The colorful Selaron stairs are fun for photos.

Practical Information

  • Baby stroller: Rio sidewalks are uneven, ramps are inadequate. The coastal walkways are flat, but kangaroo carriers are more practical on the inner streets. Shopping malls and subways are stroller friendly.

  • Kids menu: Kids menus are not common in Brazilian restaurants, but they have rice, beans, chicken and fries everywhere. Acai is a children's favorite. No worries about spicy food — Brazilian cuisine is mostly non-spicy.

  • Children's ticket discounts: Metro is free for children under 5 years old. At Cristo Redentor, Sugarloaf and museums, children aged 5-11 are generally half price, under 5 are free.

  • Toilet: Clean in shopping malls and large restaurants. Quiosques on the beach have toilets (free or 2 BRL). Carry wet wipes.

Warnings

  • The sun is tropical — children need high SPF sunscreen, a hat and plenty of water. Avoid the beach between 11-14 noon.
  • The rule of leaving valuables on the beach also applies to families with children.
  • Waves can be strong sometimes, choose shallow and sheltered areas with small children.
  • Hygiene in street food is reasonable, but check the cleanliness before feeding it to small children from crowded stalls.

Local Label and Culture Notes

Brazilians are some of the warmest people in the world. Physical contact is high, emotional expression is high, smiling is the default. But knowing some cultural codes makes your job easier.

Greetings: Men shake hands and pat on the back, women kiss on both cheeks (two kisses in Rio, one in Sao Paulo). Even at the moment of introduction, the kiss is expected — if you hold back, you will be cold.

The concept of punctuality is flexible. "Let's meet at 8" means "I will come between 8:30-9" in Carioca language. A 30-minute delay is normal for social gatherings, except for official appointments. Don't stress, drink a caipirinha, wait.

Football is serious business. In Rio you are asked which team you support — Flamengo, Fluminense, Vasco or Botafogo. If you say "Galatasaray" you will attract attention. But don't joke about the Brazilian national team 7-1 (Germany 2014), that wound still hurts.

Tip: In restaurants, a 10% service fee is automatically added to the bill (gorjeta incluída). An extra tip is not required, but adding 5-10% is appreciated if you're happy. 5-10 BRL to hotel carrier, no tip expected for taxi/Uber.

Beach tag: Don't go to the beach except for swimsuits and bikinis. Use a canga (thin cloth), not a towel — this is the Carioca sign. There is no haggling with beach vendors, the price is usually fixed and cheap.

Religion and spirituality: Brazil is officially Catholic, but African-based religions such as candomble and umbanda are common, especially in Rio. The tradition of leaving flowers and candles in the sea on New Year's Eve comes from the belief in Yemanja (the goddess of the sea). Be respectful, ask before taking photos.

Favela visit: Controversial topic. Guided tours are available and there are community supported programs (Vidigal, Rocinha). Going in on your own can be dangerous. If you are going to visit, be respectful, do not take photos without permission.

"Jeitinho brasileiro": There is a way for everything logic. The rules are flexible, the solutions are creative. If you say something is "not possible", insist a little, there is usually a jeitinho (solution).

FAQ

How many days to visit Rio? Minimum 3 days, ideal 5-7 days. You can fit Cristo, Sugarloaf, Copacabana, Ipanema and a samba night in 3 days. In 7 days you add Tijuca Forest, Santa Teresa, historical center, Maracanã and adventure activities.

Is Rio safe? Complex answer. Zona Sul (Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Botafogo) is generally safe but there are basic rules: do not leave valuables on the beach, do not walk in dark streets at night, do not wear flashy jewelry/watches, do not leave your phone out on the street. Use Uber/99, don't wander alone at night. If you follow these rules, most tourists have a problem-free trip.

Can you travel without knowing Portuguese? It is difficult but possible. English is not spoken much outside of luxury hotels and a few tourist restaurants. Google Translate saves lives. In Uber/99, typing the address is enough, there is no need to talk. 10-15 words of Portuguese will do.

How to buy carnival tickets? Sambodromo parade tickets are purchased from the official LIESA website or from authorized dealers. Cheapest tickets 200-300 BRL, good seats 500-2,000 BRL+. Blocos (street marching bands) are free — find the calendar by searching for “blocos de carnaval rio.”

Where to drink the best caipirinha? Everywhere. Serious. But the classic lime version is tried in seaside quiosques, the maracuja version in Bar do Mineiro, and all kinds are tried in botecos. Discover your own cachaça brand — Leblon, Ypióca, 51 are popular, but artisanal cachaças are something else.

Do I need a Brazilian visa? Turkish ordinary (maroon) passport holders are visa-free for up to 90 days. Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months.

Does Uber operate in Rio? Yes, it works perfectly. There is also 99, sometimes cheaper. Download both. You can even get Uber/99 from the airport.

Where do I put my belongings at the beach? This is the classic Rio problem. Take minimum belongings with you — bag, sunscreen, some cash, phone in a waterproof case. Leave valuables at the hotel. You can buy a waterproof neck bag from vendors on the beach (15-20 BRL).

Should I do a favela tour? Controversial topic. There are community-supported and guided tours—Vidigal and Rocinha are the most visited. Proceeds from these tours go back into the community. Don't go in on your own, it's both dangerous and disrespectful. If you're going to go, research in advance and choose local guided tours (80-150 BRL/person). Ask people for permission when taking photos.

Where to experience Samba night? Lapa is the center of this business. On Friday and Saturday nights, dozens of bars and clubs come alive around Arcos da Lapa (aqueducts). Pedra do Sal is the classic spot for street samba on Monday and Friday nights — free, authentic, crowded. Rio Scenarium is the most famous venue in Lapa but on the tourist side, entrance costs 40-80 BRL.

Where to eat acai? There are on every corner, but the best ones are in Zona Sul. Acai here comes in ice cream consistency, topped with granola, banana and honey. Bioglo and Polis Sucos are reliable chains. Small size 15-25 BRL. Brazilians eat acai as a meal, not as a dessert — for breakfast or as a post-surf energy boost.